Prints in the Sand: My Journey with Nanea

Now that Punchbowl is behind us, putting together a Pele hula turns out to be more fun than I expected. I propose we act out the climb up that steep, winding trail, so Nanea demonstrates the kaholo step, sliding her feet side to side and then shifting diagonally. I shake off a few nerves before trying it myself, and Lily reassures me she’s never had formal hula training either. Turns out we’re both beginners.

Lily also wants their hula to capture that stunning view from the top. So Nanea walks us through the huli, a slow hip-swaying spin. What looks effortless when she does it proves much trickier for us. Lily and I dissolve into giggles every time our eyes meet mid-spin. Next, Nanea shows us gestures for the ocean spread out below the peak. Our hands drift up and down in gentle imitation of calm waves, then crash over one another to capture the water turning wild and choppy.

This first attempt at hula feels odd, yet enjoyable, and I start inventing my own moves along the way. Mimicking Uncle Fudge, I shade my eyes as though soaking in Punchbowl’s view. Lily teases that I must be scanning for lava, which sends us all into another fit of laughter. I confess that volcanoes scare me, but dancing about Punchbowl makes me feel less scared. Maybe that’s the trick Nanea uses, too. Could hula be what helps her forget the war and be less scared?

After we’re done practicing, we walk to Tutu and Tutu Kane’s house. Nanea says it’s close by, but after the hike up the volcano and practicing hula all afternoon, I’m tired. Still, it feels worthwhile the moment Tutu opens the door, clearly delighted to see us. She and Nanea exchange the traditional greeting, foreheads and noses pressed together as they both breathe in. Then Tutu draws me into the same gesture before planting a kiss on my cheek. The warmth of it settles over me, and I can’t help smiling.

Nanea drops a record onto the player, and we run through our brand-new hula right there in the living room. Nanea narrates everything we experienced on Punchbowl for her grandparents as we dance. Tutu’s gaze stays gentle and encouraging, and I silently remind myself that dancing helps me feel less scared. Once we finish, Tutu praises Nanea’s teaching and tells me I’m starting to know hula. I admit hula is fun.

“To fall in love with hula,” Tutu tells me, “is to fall in love with Hawaii.” My throat tightens unexpectedly. I’d never thought about it like that, yet somehow Tutu knows just how I feel.

Soon, I’ll have to leave Nanea and return to my own family; I know that time has come. Even so, letting go of her feels impossible. Honestly, I’m no longer sure I want to leave Oahu at all. In the span of one day, everything about my world has turned upside down.